Saturday, 3 December 2016

Split

Spilt is Croatia's second largest city with a population more than 200 000. More relaxed than its bigger brother Zagreb thanks to its seaside vibe, the city is filled with history that dates back to the 1st century. Expect Roman architecture, beautiful cobbled streets and a bustling cafe culture.

Built by the Roman emperor Diocletian about 1700 years ago, the Diocletian Palace was constructed out of white limestone from the quarries on the island Brac, and housed everything from temples to private apartments to baths. Many of Split's historical buildings are found within the palace boundaries while about 3000 people live within the palace walls.

Climbing the bell tower, one of the city's finest landmarks, promises an excellent panoramic view of Split. Inside the cathedral there are intricate wooden sculptures of biblical characters, while an eerie crypt is located underneath the building. The Peristyle is a courtyard within Diocletian's Palace. Surrounded by impressive columns, it forms the entrance to the imperial quarters.

For a totally different experience from the busy palace, head out of the centre and skirt around the coastline to the south on a walkway that takes in the pleasure oasis of Bacvice, the tennis courts where Goran Ivansevic learned his trade, and on to the marina at Zenta.

The Riva is Split's lifeblood, a waterfront boulevard awash with palm trees, pavement cafes and model types. Take a pew with your designer shades on and try your best to fit in.

The sporting passions of the Splicani lie firmly with their football team Hajduk Split, which should explain the red, white and blue graffiti around the city.

Eat
Mediterranean dishes such as pizza and pasta, while an antipasto of cured meats and cheeses are a national favourite. Seafood in all forms is usually top quality. At the sprawling Pazar, fruit and vegetables stalls drift into meat and confectionery and up the road  is a fish market, fly-free thanks to the sulphurous spring beneath the city.

Drink
Enjoy a local beer such as Karlovacko and Ozujsko. The white wine is pretty strong and it's not rude to ask to top it up with mineral water.

Shop

Biseri Zemlje is a great little shop within the walls of Diocletian's Palace. Come here to stock up on the likes of salty Pag cheese, prsut ham and a bottle of seriously good but underrated Croatian wine. 

Day trip
Vis. The most remote of the Croatian islands sits on the cusp of Italy but feels far away from just about everywhere. Vis town has great seafood restaurants, while the islet of Komiza offers diving in its Blue Grotto.                                                

Salona. The Romans ruins of Salona were part of an ancient town home to 60 000 people in the 1st century. The ruins include an amphitheatre which held about 20000 people. Salona is 5km from Split and accessible by bus.

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